Some things are cliché for a reason

My obsessively curated Paris guide

I hate that Paris is my favorite city. I’d love to signal that I’m an experienced, independent-minded traveler by having a less cliché choice. But - after a French Literature major in undergrad, 6 months living in the city, and 15-ish visits (I‘ve lost track of exactly how many) - there’s not much I can do. My wine obsession certainly didn’t help me break away either; as far as truly global cities go, it’s the best wine city out there. There’s nowhere the world looks to for guidance on the art of living as much as it does Paris. We look to Parisians for how to dress, how to love, how to host, and how to look cool and effortlessly tasteful while sipping a glass of Chinon at the wine bar. Some things are just cliché for a reason.

Below is my evolving, obsessive guide to what I consider the greatest city on earth.

EAT AND DRINK

Comice – Tucked into a sleepy, residential part of the 16th (even relatively so), Comice is Michelin starred but with very little pretension - just excellent quality and service, along with one of the best wine lists in the city. It's a place that you can go on a either Tuesday night just because you feel like it, or for a super special dinner.

Oktobre - My favorite discovery from my most recent trip. A visit to Oktobre, a gallery-like space on the Left Bank, is a breath of fresh air after the onslaught of butter, meats, and cheeses that always comes during my first few days in Paris. The tasting menu is creative, youthful, vegetable-driven, perfectly portioned, and - at $75 - wildly accessible. Together with Comice, it has one of the best wine lists in the city.

Fulgurences L’Adresse – An incubator for up and coming young chefs. It became so popular it now has a counterpart in Brooklyn. (Tip: their website has stellar guides to some of the world’s most beautiful and exciting cities).

Yam T’Cha - Watching the Chef’s Table episode should be plenty to draw you to this contemporary, French-Chinese tasting menu. The service is excellent but refreshingly casual - with the head chef and sommelier stopping by your table to explain each dish or wine personally - and the wine pairings are excellent.

L’Avant Comptoir (du Marché, du Terre et de la Mer) – These standing-room-only small plates sisters to Le Comptoir du Relais are always crowded, delightful, reliable choices. Du Marché is located in the covered Saint Germian market, which is lovely. However, I'd go to du Terre or de la Mer next to Comptoir du Relais, in Carrefour de l’Odéon. The two are right next to each other, allowing you to bounce back and forth until you’re full from the bread and butter tower, and ready to burn it off dancing.

Fontaine de Mars - My new favorite bistrot in Paris, near Invalides. Think traditional white and red checkered table cloths, a long list of Burgundian wines to choose from, and excellent cassoulet. Every Paris trip should have one classic bistrot stop, and this is mine.

Huitrerie Régis – A fantastic oyster bar in a teeny Left Bank nook laden with white table cloths. They serve only two things: wine (Sancerre and Muscadet, to go with your oysters of course), and oysters at a minimum of one dozen per person. It’s right by L’Avant Comptoir and serves as a great amuse-bouche before filling up on small plates. 

Frenchie Wine Bar and Frenchie to Go – Both are next door to their more formal parent restaurant, Frenchie. The wine bar is a petite walk-in only cave with very very good pâté en croûte, pappardelle, and scotch eggs. The to-go bar is always a great resource for grabbing bites to picnic on the nearby Seine banks. Septime La Cave and Clamato are other nice alternatives to this (offshoots of Septime), but, if you're going to choose one wine bar/small plates offshoot of a super famous French restaurant, Frenchie wine bar is the way to go.

Adar - Amazing casual lunch spot in the beautiful Passage des Panoramas. The chef is ex-Fulgurences and dishes out stellar Middle Eastern food in the lively, tiny space.

Freddy’s – The lower-key sister restaurant of Semilla. An upbeat spot for a hearty helping of foie gras, an excellent wine list, and unusually friendly service. 

Le Servan - A super cute French-Asian fusion spot in a less-trekked part of Paris. Le Servan offers a gem of an affordable, low-key tasting menu with wine pairings in a airy, modern space. The chef’s take on white asparagus is especially fun!

Le Grand Bain - I inevitably get to a point in Paris where, try as I might, I just can't manage another steak tartare or pâté en croûte. This place is seafood and veggie-focused, served on small plates with a great wine list in a graffiti-ed alley way.

Juveniles - A slightly more modern take on the traditional Parisian bistrot, conveniently situated right by the Louvre. Perfect for a relaxed, yet elegant, Sunday night dinner.

Ellsworth – Though I’ll admit I’ve been to plenty of similar places in the U.S, what Ellsworth lacks in novelty it makes up for in atmosphere. Beautifully presented small plates and mains from a narrow nook in the 1st arrondissement, with a lovely wine list to match.

Breizh Café – My favorite micro-chain for traditional Breton crepes and cider when I’m wishing I could be on the beach of Saint-Malo. Breizh’s buckwheat batter is stellar, and the subtle Japanese inspiration sets the food and décor apart from the other stalwarts. (Tip: if their Rue Vielle du Temple location is full, the owners of the affiliated shop next door may let you eat at their table)

Café at Musée Jaquemart-André ­– If you happen to be near the Champs Elysée, or even Faubourg Saint-Honoré, it can be extremely difficult to find good food. This café, hidden in the courtyard of this beaux arts and arts décoratifs museum, has a gorgeous interior and terrace. And it actually serves great food! If you go at prime lunch time (1 pm) there will be a wait, as there are a lot of offices nearby and professionals flock here midday.

Bars at the Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers (the rooftop bar and Herbarium) – Though I’ve never stayed at the hotel itself, I find myself here frequently for their bars. Herbarium is super chic, but the rooftop bar is the highlight for its gorgeous view of several Parisian monuments.

Le Comptoir Géneral ­– A super trendy and spacious spot for young Parisians along the Canal St. Martin. Playful furniture, sprawling indoor and outdoor spaces, and lively bar and food.

Le Barav  - A cozy wine bar and shop in the 3rd, also serving classic wine bar fare like terrine and cheese boards. If you’re splitting a bottle with friends (or hey, by yourself, why not!), pick it up at the adjacent wine store and bring the bottle to the bar for the waiters to serve.

Le Grenier à Pain – Though less of a visitor hot spot, this is my longstanding favorite bakery in Paris. There are several, but the one I’ve always gone to is in the Abbesses neighborhood. Grab two of their mind-numbingly good croissants – one plain, one chocolate - first thing in the morning, while they’re fresh, and scarf them down on a bench in front of the “I Love You Wall,” before heading up to beat the crowds at the Sacre-Coeur.

Du Pain et des Idées – It’s definitely no secret (it’s considered one of the best in Paris), but this remains a fantastic boulangerie and pâtisserie in the 10th. Get there early if you want the first pick of goods or a seated spot outside. I adore their tartines.

Carette – I go here for macarons to-go, nothing else. And they are the best macarons in Paris, no question. Their cassis-violette is my favorite flavor. The Place Vosges location is beautiful, and another at Trocadéro is quite convenient if you want to get a box of macarons to go and eat them on the lawn in front of the Eiffel Tower.

Marché des Enfants-Rouges – A compact but diverse covered food market in the Marais lined with wine bars, oyster stalls, excellent Lebanese food, and so much for. Checks the box for both grocery shopping and a casual, fun lunch!

EXPLORE

Louis Vuitton Foundation – Though off the usual Louvre-Pompidou-Orsay route (and, to be clear, I love all of these), the Louis Vuitton Foundation is a must even for first time visitors. It’s an awe-inspiring Gehry-designed art and event space in the Bois de Boulogne with an unparalleled rooftop and adventurous exhibitions. From summer jazz concerts, to Kusama infinity rooms, to an expansive Basquiat-Schiele exhibition, everything I’ve been to at the Foundation is outstanding.

Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature – I love this Marais treasure so much that I’ve been here three times! It’s a taxidermy museum. Yes, I know that’s not why you go to Paris, but every trip should leave room for the strange and unexpected. The museum is expertly curated, mildly decadent and just a tad surreal. It’s perfect.

Père Lachaise Cemetery – Though recommending a taxidermy museum and a cemetery in such quick succession will probably make some question my taste (and my sanity) the eerie elegance of Paris’ largest, stunning cemetery can’t be missed.

Musée Jaquemart-André ­– If you happen to be near the Champs Elysée, this beaux-arts and arts décoratifs museum is worth stopping by. A hideout from tourist crowds and a cultural jolt all in one!

Musée de l’Orangerie – Water lilies! Enough said.

Musée de l’Armée – An impressive military museum in the Hôtel National des Invalides, near the Champ de Mars. Napoleon’s tomb is here, but the intricate armor on display is the real highlight.

Musée National Picasso-Paris – If you’re exhausted from trekking through the Louvre and can’t manage one more mega-museum, the Picasso museum is a manageable but worthwhile alternative. (A bonus: it’s just off one of my favorite streets in the Marais.) 

Jardin du Luxembourgˆ- Everyone will tell you to go here, but it's my favorite park in Paris. Again, some things are just cliché for a reason.

Jardin des Plantes – An accessible urban oasis with a zoo, a labyrinth, a greenhouse, and beautiful park spaces on the left bank. Easy walking distance to St. Germain.

Canal St. Martin – A perfect spot for people watching and soaking in youthful Parisian energy. Students and young professionals line the banks of this canal in the warmer months to catch up with friends, share a bottle of wine - all the good stuff! It’s also flanked by excellent restaurants and bars.

Rue Montorgueil – A bustling street bordering the 1st and 2nd arrondissements, and an easy walk to either the Marais or the Palais-Royal. It’s a lovely and compact place to grab food for a picnic along the banks of the Seine with numerous fromageries, wine shops, boulangeries, and boucheries lining the street. 

Galerie Vivienne – Paris is full of charming interior passageways surrounding the Palais-Royal. This one is particularly lovely. Brimming with jewelry shops and objets d’art, it offers a great hideout from the rain while exploring the city on foot. 

SHOP

Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen – An unbelievable luxury flea market with both indoor and outdoor spaces. Reserve at least two hours to explore (I actually do recommend getting a map at the tourist office outside the market entrances to help with your plan of attack, since each section of the market is organized by specialty). (Tip: though everyone will tell you to enter via the Porte Clignancourt, I’d say it’s much nicer to descend at the Garibaldi metro station (line 13) and walk from the other direction.)

Plaisir Palace - Sounds like a sex shop, but couldn’t be further from it. Rather, it’s one of Paris’ top, high-end vintage destinations. The owner - Didier - is remarkably passionate, friendly, and exacting in his tastes. I last came out with a vintage wool Gaultier suit that I never want to take off.

Nice Piece Vintage - Though a very different shopping experience from Plaisir Palace (far more punk rock and ex-beauty queen attic than curated, modern boudoir) Nice Piece is my other top vintage shop in Paris, offering everything from hand-sculpted cowboy boots to feather-dressed mob wife coats. I left with a flared, gem-encrusted, suede and leather paneled jacket on my last visit.

LLOSA - A brand new spot and a new discovery that I treasure from my last visit (the shop had opened just the prior week). Fred Llosa’s androgynous, technical, sculpted sets are some of the coolest purchases in Paris. (I have my own in baby blue, and grow more obsessed every day).

La Prestic Ouiston - I’ve found La Prestic Ouiston’s psychedelic, uncompromising, playful silk prints to be a reprieve in the sameness of the “quiet luxury” trend. Each piece looks glamorous and feminine, but feels like custom-made pajamas.

Merci - This vast concept store in the Marais is an institution. A one-stop shop for carefully curated clothing, books, and home goods.

The Broken Arm - If you’re shocked to find that Paris doesn’t have a Dover Street Market…. it’s because it has The Broken Arm. Pop by this trendsetting Marais spot to get a sense of which designers to watch.

STAY

Saint James - This is your spot for a relaxing, very special stay in Paris. The Saint James touts its status as the only chateau-hotel in Paris, but deservedly so. A stay here feels opulent and indulgent, but also like you’ve casually popped by the home of your welcoming, aristocratic friend for a nightcap. While truly special, it’s not central, so this is not where to stay on a first visit.

Hotel Providence - This petite and discreet hotel is in one of Paris’ best addresses. It’s easily walkable to the restaurant, site, and nightlife hotspots of the Marais and Pigalle, but it’s tucked away in a quiet side street, allowing you to have your morning pain au chocolat and Le Monde read in peace. The rooms are small, but nicely curated.

La Fantaisie - This central spot has an enviable roster of creators; from interiors by Martin Brudnizki - the Swedish designer behind some of the world’s top hotels - to restaurants by Dominique Crenn - the revered French-Californian chef. Again, the rooms are small, but tasteful, and the common areas are spacious and playful, so you won’t be in your room much.